I have a bigger radiator now but need to make new brackets. For a short first test run I will try without water cooling.

Today ignition fixed and adjusted.
After HPI the piston position should be 2-4mm before OT. I took the middle, 3mm before OT.

[youtube=ktEsGDtG6oI]

Then adjusted the rotor to the position as shown in HPI installation…[Lees meer]

so, I talked to RC-freak, who is handling the manufacturing of the gear wheels.

From that he is willing to change his mind and manufacture the gear wheels with a inner diameter form (halfmoon) what fit on the standard krukas and not on the special 2-gear krukas.

Outer diameter and tooth number will stay like on his drawing above.

Who is…[Lees meer]

Martino, 😀 you are thinking about the evo style of that gear wheel.

For now only that specific type will be manufactured. Thinking about different drive belt length maybe possible as this will not need a special tool.

And there we are at the point of cost.

There will be one time fix cost for the tool and one time fix shipping cost for a…[Lees meer]

Very nice documentation, clean project. :thumb

Like to see it running.

nice. :thumb

are you going to use a cooling water pump on your Rotari?
And what radiator are you using on that?

Andree, yes, would be great if junior and I can drive with you.
Please count us in. :thumb

Aah, is it the weekend of 21/22Sep now? 🙂

seann, that is a good idea, maybe I will make a bracket over the cylinder like misterd11 was showing in that pic.
And then fix the CDI on top of the bracket. That will look cool and bring some stiffness for the frame. 😀

as Jarco said, there will be enough fuel pressure to get fuel in the carb when the fuel tank is full.
Fuel tank size…[Lees meer]

:D, hihihi, stopping is maybe a good point to consider.

I bended the cutout edge around the ignition a little to the outside to fit the engine with ignition.

Then I saw that the driving belt was not running in line with the fox clutch.

Put a ca. 5mm distance between the clutch and gearbox, and it it is in line. 😉

Now I’m…[Lees meer]

update: Engine is finished assembled.

Cutted off the middle bar what was blocking the carb, now that is looking good.

first drive with Multivar 8,4gr and 90mm Vario, Malossi TooBad, still 76er main jet, waiting for chokesystem 😉

Runs not bad as it is

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also JuniorPiet had a smooth drive :lol

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choke system is ordered. 😀

thanks guys, it was the choke. 😀

First try and it was running with choke. The carb has a 76er main jet, just like I bought it.
Now fine adjustmen of jets is needed.

[youtube=t0GkySRHNxE]

[youtube=wb8ZMZmpV7A]

maybe the first cm’s of the manifold after outlet is getting too hot for the coating, but the main body of the exhaust should be ok temperature wise I guess. 😉

very clean, cool. :thumb

That also was my thinking, that the mixture for start function is different without shoke and that this can be the reason.

Hans, I bought the carb 2nd hand and didn’t take care about this minor stuff :lol

Lennaert, I tried to spray start pilot into the air intake side of the carb, but not a mini start reaction on the engine.
Don’t have a second 19er carb for the RV, but trying a 13er could be an idea.

aggressive and quick reaction on throttle movement, very high rev’s with wheely power.

Yes, like to drive this engine too, but still looking for the reason why it don’t like to start.

Having no choke on the carb, can that be reason? Or should it also start without choke?

As said, there is spark on the spark plug, but the spark plug is…[Lees meer]

Cool, I like to run my Sprocatti Evo with it, starting will be with a hand drilling machine. So no problem with that.
Will not need to put a screw into the clutch and follow it after engine is running 😀

Also will not reach the 1000 km mark with that engine so fast.

Thanks for you input on that topic. :thumb

haha 😀 bad thing for the sprocatti rotary driver. 😀

Yes, I know your Citta with the 50cc and fox kopeling very well from former nice tours we made together. But didn’t realize that it was a snor gear box.