- Dit onderwerp bevat 161 reacties, 43 deelnemers, en is laatst bijgewerkt op 13 jaren, 12 maanden geleden door Vespa_addicted.
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23 december 2010 om 17:31 #279431
tnerual :
But i have only one remark,on a picture of the cylinder, i Saw that the bottom of the exhaust port is lower than the top of the transfers.. I think this isn’t very good?Ofcourse it is! Try find a 2stroke cilinder that doesnt have this:D (Foekema FST not included)
@Piet, I hope your membramehousing will hold. I’ve broken a couple of them modified like this during installation in the engine. The spring can be too strong for the weak aluminiumaloy. Some will hold, some won’t. Modification of the spring helps
AW50-4t | 13.13 | Gianelli Citypower | 3.2Nm@6000rpm | 3.0pk@6700rpm
Home made engine dyno23 december 2010 om 18:16 #279433Arvid, thanks for the info, Iwill have an eye on it. 😉
The original Polini two membran has a thickness of 0,33mm. Do you think I have to use a different thicknes of the new membran?
Btw. what do you think about the bewerkt carter? Did I mill too much away or is it ok?
7 januari 2011 om 18:16 #279504update.
I got a KTM Brembo rear brake and it looks that it fits into the Ciao frame when I build a special bracket for the caliper and adapter plate to fix the brake disc to the wheel.:D
7 januari 2011 om 18:21 #279505You better put some extra weight on the back because you’ll be catapulted : -)
Funky stuff!
7 januari 2011 om 20:36 #279506=)
looks great! i’m sure it will drive that way too.
7 januari 2011 om 20:46 #279507Piet30 :
update.I got a KTM Brembo rear brake and it looks that it fits into the Ciao frame when I build a special bracket for the caliper and adapter plate to fix the brake disc to the wheel.:D
Wow, where did you get that rims!
Oh. i see now.. its the disc. 😀7 januari 2011 om 22:06 #279509nice work again and again
8 januari 2011 om 00:15 #279510That will give some nice stopping power:D
And every week a new back tire offcourse:D10 januari 2011 om 21:24 #279529as the Simo kruk is neutral balanced and the flywheel not, both together always turn with the ignition window to the top.

to get the flywheel also neutral balanced together with the kruk I pressed two pieces lead of about 9,5 gr weight each into the slots above the ignition window.
With that and a 8mm hole on the opposite side of the ignition window the kruk/flywheel system is now balanced neutral.:DIt stops now in every position.




10 januari 2011 om 21:26 #279530NICE =)
10 januari 2011 om 22:02 #279531Is that a special machine for it or how did you do that?
It looks quiet interesting against the fibrations!11 januari 2011 om 08:04 #279532I think he simply hangs both the crank and the flywheel together to see wich part turns down(=heavy), that part gets a hole or the opposite side gets a weight(lead).
It’s the same as balancing a bicycle wheel.
I never say anything else, but nice work ralf! 😀
11 januari 2011 om 10:18 #279533Edjuh, that’s how it is. Hope this will work. :bier
geodguus, this is no special machine. This is the table of my milling machine. (I know this is flat 😉 )
I positioned two clamping blocks that the kruk and flywheel can turn easily without blocking. Thats all.11 januari 2011 om 13:59 #279534And what gives this as result ?
11 januari 2011 om 14:10 #279535It’s for the balance.
There will be less fibrations in de krank and flywheel..
When you whatch the tires of a car you’ll see pieces of lead on the rims that’s also for the balance -
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